Fusilade Selective Herbicide II 73215, White

I had been doing a lot of research to try to solve my lawn problem, which is that I have a zoysia lawn that has been invaded by lots of unwanted grasses and weeds, especially bermuda grass (since that's so hard to get rid of). Proper use of selective herbicides is very sensitive to dosage, and after doing research, coming up with a mix, and trying it, I can say I've had great success.If you have this problem too, you've likely come across some research saying to use a mix of fusilade II and triclopyr. The surprising thing about this combo is that pure fusilade by itself may harm zoysia, but adding triclopyr (which by itself is a pretty strong herbicide) supposedly has some protective effect for zoysia. I don't know enough chemistry and plant biology to know exactly why this is true, but figured it was worth a shot.The issue for me was I was seeing online lots of varying information about quantity/concentration and ratio between the two. The confusing thing about many herbicides is the application directions typically are stated in terms of how many ounces to use per acre, which makes sense for agriculture, since they use large sprayers and have a pretty good sense of how much coverage they get per acre. But for a homeowner with lawn application, the question in one's mind is really: how much of this should I add to a 1 or 2 gallon handheld sprayer to a get an appropriate concentration?Across some info online, I found pretty large variations in both total concentration and ratio of the two, so I kind of averaged those out, went with a conservative concentration, and went with a lower ratio of triclopyr-to-fusilade. Below is my recipe for making 1 gallon:-15ml Triclopyr-5ml Fusilade II-5ml surfactant-splash of blue spray colorant (so you can see where you've sprayed)-gallon of water(I prefer metric measurement, and the dispensers on the bottles have markings in both ml and fluid ounces.)So this is a 3:1 ratio of T:F, while some recipes I came across online were greater than a 5:1 ratio. I have not done enough testing to say if this is "optimal" or not, but I can say two things about this mix: 1) my zoysia seems completely unharmed by this, and 2) it does a great job of killing bermuda and other lawn nuisances. Note it might take a week or two to see the results, so be patient. Be careful of overspray and never spray when it's windy, this could accidentally harm or kill other things you want (bushes, trees, flowers, etc.).I know this bottle might seem expensive, but it will last you a very long time, and it's well worth it to solve this kind of lawn problem.

I spent thousands of $ professionally sodding my yard and using a lawn company to keep the weeds away. Even so, the Bermuda grass was invading and taking over my Maryland blue fescue lawn choking it out. For some reason, professionals said nothing could be done about Bermuda grass except killing the whole lawn and starting over but after spending so much, I did not want to give up so easily. I searched online and found information about fusilade. It was mid September before I treated. After reading reviews that warned it could burn if using too much I sprayed making sure I didn't mix too much or over saturate. Afterwards, I planned to wait 3-4 weeks and then aerate and reseed hoping the Bermuda grass would be killed off enough that the new grass would have a fighting chance to grow before it got too cold. I followed the directions on the bottle and honestly didn't know what to expect since it seemed like a very small amount of fusilade to mix with so much water but hoped for the best. Sure enough within 2 weeks I noticed the Bermuda grass browning. Bermuda grass grows sideways across the top of your yard and in long runners underground, rooting and popping up everywhere making it hard to kill. It will creep several feet across mulched gardens and sidewalks and is not affected by normal weed and feed products. If you pull carefully, you can pull up a very long runner with several shoots. (See photos before treating.) 2 weeks after treating I started to pull up one of the runners that were turning brown and saw that there was still green in the runner. After a couple more weeks I noticed more brown and it seemed like the undergrownd runners were also dying. I also noticed some stressed bluegrass areas in my lawn but it seemed to be holding up ok. At this point the weather was starting to get much cooler and I wanted the new grass to have a chance to grow. Finally I aerated and reseeded using a seed starting fertilizer and happily noticed new grass coming in after the first week. Next spring I will try to spray around the perimeter of my yard to keep the neighbors "weeds" from creeping over and spot treat any areas I see Bermuda grass popping up that may've survived it been missed from the fall treatment. I'm hopeful that by being diligent with this, my yard will be thick and weed free!

Killed almost all the Bermuda grass I’m fighting against—definitely needs more than one application though…small patches are coming back after a few months…