Sea Foam Motor Treatment Fuel & Oil Additive, SF16, 16 oz

I somewhat recently bought a 1983 Volkswagen Vanagon With the 2,0 litre aircooled engine. I went to clean the ERG valve recently and found that it was clogged all the way with just greasy sooty gunk from the exhaust so im guessing my car has not had much of a cleanout ever and the erg filter is likely rusted out but nonetheless I knew that i could quickly and easily clean it out whereas a new erg filter costs a hundred dollars or more. I bought two bottles of Seafoam Motor treatment because its an add on item and that way i could get the discounted price without adding anything on. For my purposes I found it easiest to pour the seafoam into the hose that attaches to the auxiliary air valve as this was easy to remove and fed right into the junction past the Mass airflow sensor. The brake booster would have been more troublesome despite many people recommending it. I Believe you should just look at all the air hoses leading into the manifold of your car and choose which both won't change the way the engine runs and is easy to pour into which in many cases is the brake booster hose. I warmed up the engine so the auxiliary air valve would not be needed for engine operation, and then I had to cover the majority of the open and exposed end of the hose so the engine would not be choked by too much air, then Its a matter of putting the right amount of Seafoam in so that you don't choke it that way either. At this point you will begin seeing white smoke come out of the exhaust. This is a sign that the seafoam is burning and working properly so continue until you've used nearly a third of the bottle. I actually had trouble killing the engine at the end when you are supposed to pour enough in to kill it so I just shut off the ignition after dumping a lot in at the end. I waited about 10 minutes for it to all soak in and then restarted the engine. I let it run for a little and then began a slow drive around the neighborhood in a low gear to run the engine quickly but not too fast. This created the most smoke by far which is good because that meant it soaked well. Once the smoke stopped or slowed significantly I shut the engine off and checked in the ERG valve hole on the manifold once the engine cooled. I Could not find any more of the greasy black gunk so It worked! The rest was split between going into the fuel and the oil to clean out injectors and galleys and I plan on an oil change soon as a result. Great product does what it says it does and my engine is running much smoother now likely due to a more even mixture in a no longer impacted manifold. I also recommend watching a youtube video on how to do this, it helps to see the things I'm talking about.

Been using it for years on my 100% gas and diesel. Never have a problem. Cheap insurance.

Good product. Can clean your engine while you drive, also will clean your fuel injectors. In the gallon size, it’s more economical than buying the pints. Also can help stabilize fuel for long term storage.

We have a small-engine mechanic who turned us onto SeaFoam motor treatment -- and against most gasoline preservatives and treatments. He said he'd drained, or seen inside, thousands of gasoline tanks, and the stuff sold as gasoline storage additives was often still there, sitting as gel on the bottom of the tank. Just gunk. He also said most brands of engine treatment weren't worth the money. However, he swore by SeaFoam, which I'd never tried at the time, and my experience since has proved him out. I've had many rough-running engines find their power and performance again, with nothing different, but a shot of SeaFoam in the gas tank (and the crankcase).We own a number of vehicles and equipment with small engines, from a compact backhoe, to a ride'em Husqvarna mower, weedwacker, chainsaw -- and on the larger size, a Honda SUV and Ford F150 pickup. All of them have benefited greatly from the regular use of SeaFoam. However, when we're running the road vehicles a lot, especially in the summer, we go through gas and don't necessarily add SeaFoam with every fill. Recently, the Ford began to run rough. It stalled as I pulled up to corners and lights. In the past, that would have meant a mechanic and an expensive tune-up. All I did was go for a fill-up, and started by adding a full can of SeaFoam. Problem solved, just like that.The Terramite (made in the USA) backhoe is not used a lot -- and as with most motors, that is a problem. It's bad for an engine not to run it -- and especially, in most cases, for it to sit with gas in the tank. The backhoe has a Kohler Command 25-horse gasoline engine that powers the hydraulics that run the wheels, steering, front-loader, and backhoe. I change the spark plugs each season, but it, like my Stihl chainsaw, and 6500 watt backup (gasoline) generator, and for that matter, all the small engines, can be hard to start after a hiatus. And even when they get going, they'll run rough. I used to drain the tanks frequently, then run them dry, then fill again before use, and hope for the best. But SeaFoam has changed all that. Throughout the summer, I can leave treated gas in the tank, and have little problems with starts or rough running.In the smaller equipment, I dose the gasoline with each fill (1 oz per gallon), as SeaFoam cleans both carburetors and full injection systems. It is good for gasoline and diesel engines. Added to your crankcase (1.5 oz per quart of oil), it cleans deposits and quiets noisy lifters.These days, most gasoline is mixed with ethanol and that's a bad thing for small engines. Ethanol goes hand in hand with water -- and as we all know, water in the gas is anathema to motors. Again, my small engine mechanic told me, 90% of the no-start problems he had to deal with were caused by ethanol-caused water in the fuel system. SeaFoam actually controls moisture and prevents this problem. It also de-ices and is anti-gel.In my opinion, when it comes to gasoline and diesel engines, large and small, SeaFoam is THE Silver Bullet. My equipment is often running, while my neighbors are running with theirs to the shop. I've told many about SeaFoam, but some people seem to want to do it the hard way.By the way, I also swear by PRI-G fuel additive for long-term gasoline storage. I keep 100 gallons of gas in tanks for emergency use. We are in a rural, wilderness area. I was introduced to that by survival expert, Steve Harris. He said he's had gasoline that was 10 years old still run equipment, because he'd added PRI-G to it (you can buy here on Amazon). Of course, you have to remember to add more PRI-G each year -- that's the catch.So our rule of thumb is, PRI-G for long term fuel storage -- and SeaFoam for month to month. Also -- this price is right! Of course, when you compare the cost of equipment breakdown, and having to take anything to a mechanic, this is almost free. However, apples to apples, this price is cheaper than Walmart -- and up to $4 cheaper per can than many auto supply and hardware stores.Can't say enough good things about this product! Highly recommended.