KICKER 43CWRT81 8 Inch Woofer CompRT81 Black

The thickness (or rather thin-ness) was a huge selling point for me, and it did not disappoint. I was able to retrofit this into the stock sub box in the wall of the trunk, so that I could upgrade the bass while keeping my trunk space. In terms of sound quality, it does not disappoint. 10/10 would recommend for this purpose.

Für die grösse macht der sub richtig gut Druck, über 4 ohm angeschlossen. Der sub braucht ne gewisse Zeit um sich einzuspielen weil die Membran sehr steif ist .

This sub sounds amazing! Replaced the factory sub in my wifes 2012 Charger. The screw holes don't match up the factory holes, but got it to mount using self tapping screws in the back deck. No additional amplifiers were added. In my opinion, this is definitely worth the money!

This is what I was looking for and so far so good. I wanted a replacement to the Sony sub in my truck, and I tried the Pioneer that fit perfectly the Ts-A2000LD2, but it sounded worse than the Sony. I returned it and saw this 1 ohm .018 sealed enclosure requirement. I am lucky I bought it or I would be spending $500-$600 to get a little more oomph (MTX thunderform or Kicker SS). This subwoofer does require a little more power of signal to go to it, but it is pretty loud and deep in the stock enclosure. I don't feel I am pushing it too hard like I was the Sony. I believe the 1-ohm and the small size matter, not too mention 700w is a joke Sony they are sending 60w x 2 max. To install I just used short wood screws where there were previous holes and the sub surround seals it up pretty good. I used Dynamat to seal the top hole of the screw that held the old Sony subwoofer.

The media could not be loaded.  Almost a bolt-in replacement in a 2010 Ford Escape with factory premium audio (with sub). This sub will bolt into the factory subwoofer enclosure with slight modifications. Factory sub has a bolt securing it from the back. You must remove this to remove the factory sub. Doing so leaves about an inch diameter hole. The factory sub mounting holes also do not align with this kicker sub. Simple solution, though. I JB welded the rear hole and factory mounting holes. After sealing the holes, I redrilled mounting holes for the Kicker sub and reused the factory mounting screws. A couple layers of foam speaker gasket on the sub and a few extra to seal around the wire channel on the sub box (where wires go under the sub into the box) and it was sealed up air tight. You also have to cut the spade connectors off the factory pigtail from the amp to connect to the spring terminals on this sub. Factory sub is labeled, so +/- wires are easy to identify. I included pics for reference of the factory wiring.Overall this is a great replacement or upgrade for someone looking to retain factory look (rear trim panel is off still on my pics). The factory amp has plenty of power for reasonable listening volumes, even though from specs I could find about factory amp (42w x 2 @ 1ohm), it is underpowered per Kicker’s specs. Easy installation and good performance at an affordable price.