GROHE46092000 LadyLux Hose, 15mm x ½ x 1500 inches, Chrome

I was initially extremely concerned because all the generic photos online of this 46-092-000 replacement part didn't look in detail like the O-ringed brass end and threaded quick-release end of my old broken flex-hose. So, semi-freaked out, I decided I'd trust the other Amazon reviews that said this was in fact the real deal. Wow! Was I ever glad I did!Other reviews said it would take 10 minutes to install my new replacement hose on my 8 year-old Grohe Lady Lux faucet. A gross exaggeration! It took no more than five (excluding under the sink clean-up prep) and fit perfectly, with not a drop of leakage! Only tool needed is a 13mm open-end wrench to unthread the old hose end from the quick-release coupling at the water line and later tighten the new one back onto that coupling. Slip-joints, Vise Grip, small crescent wrench, or similar tools would probably work just as well. Note: a 1/2" open-end will NOT fit the flats - too small by a smidgen.Installation is a total no-brainer. My old hose broke at about 1" before the spray-head, so the weight of old hose had then caused it to slip back down the faucet neck into the cupboard below the sink where it lay like a dead chrome snake.Procedure: turn off the hot and cold water valves under the sink first. Clear the space out, then decouple the plastic quick-release coupling fastening the broken flex-hose to the small-diameter water-line pipe to which it is attached by pushing upwards on the quick-release fitting while simultaneously retracting its collar. Hold the green-and-black (or older yellow-and-black) plastic coupling in one hand and use the 13mm wrench on the flats of the old chrome hose fitting to unfasten the two. Save the long, slinky spring encasing the old hose for re-use later. Slide on the new threaded, tapered sprayer-head bezel (or re-use your familiar old one, as I did) over the new hose, then connect that end of the new hose to the sprayer-head by first unscrewing the original tapered bezel fitting, removing the old broken end, and pushing the new O-ringed brass hose-end coupling into the sprayer head, then screwing together the hose with the sprayer by hand-tightening the hose bezel. Feed the new hose length back down the faucet neck and refit the sprayer-head back into the faucet neck as it normally resides. Now go underneath the sink and slide on to the new flex-hose length the original slinky spring you saved earlier (easier to do than to describe). Once it's on, reattach the plastic quick-release to the threaded end of the new flex-hose and tighten using the 13mm wrench. Now reattach the entire assembly to the water line with the quick-couple. You're now ready to turn back on the water valves and - Presto! - you'll be back in business. You can do the whole thing in about the time it takes to read this, plus you'll feel great because you did it yourself and saved so much money, starting with this replacement hose purchase.The replacement hose sold here on Amazon is an OEM part, fits perfectly, and about 50% off list. All-in, I doubt you can find it cheaper anywhere else. Being a 'value-conscious shopper', I tried. Save your time. I paid an extra $5+ bucks for Priority Mail shipping, and it got from NY to SoCal in 2 1/2 days! No 9% CA sales tax about paid for the expedited shipping.

My wife finally managed to kill the hose after she had previously killed the sprayer head. Replacing the two parts (sprayer and hose) were still less than replacing the entire faucet. How do these hoses break you ask? Kinking them. They're just like flexible electrical whips (the flexible metal conduits used on central air conditioners and the like). They're coiled metal and, once you over flex it, the coil kinks. There's no going back from that. How to avoid that? Pull more hose out of the faucet and hold the sprayer with one hand and support the hose with the other. Some people think that because they're covered in metal they are invincible. They are not.Installation was a breeze, with it taking longer to empty the cabinet than to perform the repair. You don't even have to turn off the water supply as the faucet itself is sufficient to stop the water flow. First, disconnect the spray head by unscrewing the sprayer from the hose. The connection should be no more than hand tight. (remember the old "lefty loosey" saying)Now crawl under the sink. Here's the trick.... the yellow fitting on the end of the hose is a "click" fitting. Slide the yellow plastic portion down while pushing up on the end of the hose, and it will disconnect. You will notice that there is a spring on the hose that prevents you from pulling the entire hose out of the faucet and kinking it (which is how it breaks - as described above). Look at the end of the hose where the yellow quick connector is. You will notice that those two parts separate. Taking a narrow open end wrench (I used a small miniature set of slip joint channel locks - a wider wrench might not fit between the yellow fitting and the metal hose end fitting), unscrew the yellow connector from the hose. The spring will now slide off. Make sure you take a look at how the spring and hose go back together for reassembly.Go back topside and pull the hose through the faucet. It doesn't come out smoothly as the end doesn't flex, but it will come out. Just keep gently bringing it up and rotating it slightly until it does.You're almost done.Now side the replacement hose through the faucet. Same caution goes. It's not going to slide smoothly into the faucet, but it does go with a little manipulation (again, rotating the hose helps). Once it passes through, put the sprayer handle on the top side, return to your under the sink position, slide the spring back onto the hose under the sink, reinstall the yellow connector (don't over tighten), and simply click the yellow connector back on the faucet body.It really is that simple.