84113 Rotted Wood Repair Kit, Water-Based Hardener, Epoxy Paste & Epoxy Putty, 1 oz

I had some damage to the exterior of two wooden window frames, from a squirrel chewing away at the wood, trying to get inside. This product worked very well to repair the damage. The kit is extremely complete and the instructions are easy to follow. A few notes: The PC-Petrifier is a very watery liquid, so it tends to run and will leave a slight mark (once it dries) if it runs on to undamaged wood. After a final sanding, however, I didn't notice these marks any more, but don't let it run onto wood that you won't be refinishing. The Petrifier is water based, so you can wash out the small flux brush that they include and reuse it. The two-part epoxy was easy to mix, because the two parts are two different colors, and you keep mixing until it's a uniform blend. The result is the consistency of sticky peanut butter. If you can imagine applying sticky peanut butter to your damaged wood, it's not so easy to get a smooth uniform coating. If you are repairing deep or widespread damage, plan on making multiple applications (I did them one day apart, to allow curing) instead of trying to do it all at once. The first application might just be to work the epoxy into all the nooks and crannies so it adheres well, which requires some pressure with the putty knife. Even for the final application, it will be hard to get a very smooth and uniform finish, so plan on doing some sanding after the final cure. By the way, if you want to reuse the mixing board they provide, use a paper towel to wipe off the epoxy before it cures, which leaves the board almost like new. You can even wipe off and reuse the mixing stick. I used a Surform tool for rough sanding, and regular sandpaper for final sanding. I should say that I have the carbide grit Surform tool, which is very aggressive, and it still required some work to get rid of the bumps and waviness in the cured putty. It wasn't an excessive amount of work, but it did require some "elbow grease". When I finished sanding, I saw a couple of small voids in the surface where I missed with the final putty application. This is a good place to use the other epoxy putty in the kit, the tube of kneadable putty. Pinch off a little blob of putty, knead it well to mix it (wear latex gloves), and work it into any voids to fix boo-boos. The cured epoxy holds paint well and when I was all done, the repair looked great!

I want to start by saying I am a complete novice and am trying to learn how to do some repairs around my own house to save money. And I loved this product. I bought this to repair some porch floor boards that had some big (10-18 inch x 1 in) splinters missing. A few boards also had rotted ends that had splintered up and looked really raggedy. I didn't want to replace the boards because of the expense and extent of the work that would have been required to do so, but I wanted the boards to look better / more complete for repainting. I used the PC-petrifier to harden up and preserve the underlying wood in the areas that I needed to replace. After 24 hours I then used the PC-Woody to rebuild the ends of the boards and to fill-in and rebuild the missing splintered areas. In some of my deep cracks / splintered areas, I had to place a second layer 24 hours later as it did shrink a little. I probably could have skipped doing this, the shrinkage was barely noticeable, but I tend to fuss with things until I think they are perfect. After 24 hours the repairs seemed cured, so I sanded the repaired areas a tiny bit by hand and then painted it. The paint went onto the repairs beautifully. If I didn't know where the repairs were, I don't think I could pick them out. My only problem was mixing the PC-Woody up. It is a two-part epoxy that must be combined 1:1. I used a scale to make sure I was doing 1:1 accurately by measuring onto the tile provided in the kit. Because my repairs were so extensive, I had to use almost all the material in both jars and the tile was really too small for mixing up that much of the product. For small repairs it would be fine but I suggest using a bigger tile or piece of plastic to mix the epoxy on if you are using more than 1/4 of the jars. The directions describe the consistence of the mixed epoxy to be like that of peanut butter and I would say that this is accurate. It was not too hard to work with. I actually found that filling in the larger areas roughly and then waiting 5-15 minutes for the material to set up a little and then going back and shaping and smoothing was easier than trying to get the shape perfect while the epoxy was still really soft and sticky. After waiting for it to firm up a little, I used my gloved fingers to press and smooth the epoxy into the shape I wanted and touched up with the putty knife to smooth it level with the neighboring boards. I am very pleased with this product and am planing to buy a separate set of the PC-Woody to repair some rotted windowsill interiors that I have.

This is not a kit you would use to repair structural damage. It's perfect for cosmetic or small repairs. I had some local rotting on a window sill and another hidden spot on our side door frame. I cut out the bad wood with a chisel, cleaned the area, FOLLOWED the directions carefully, and was very happy with the results. I emphasized following the directions because it's important. While this isn't rocket science, you do need to use the components correctly to get the desired results. If you do, and you allow the epoxied repair to cure, you can do anything you would normally do with wood. Sand it, paint it, drive screws or nails through it - it is at least as strong as the wood around it. Just make sure you clean out the bad stuff and use the petrifier. Personally, I like to chisel out the bad stuff and know that it won't come back to bite me later on. A useful addition for any homeowner and DIYer.

Like any epoxy filler, this putty takes some practice to use correctly. When mixed together, the two components take on the consistency of stiff peanut butter. It does mix up fairly quickly and you do have about 20-30 minutes to work with it but the consistency dictates that smaller sized mixes are easier to work with. I'd advise not dealing with anything larger than a tennis ball (I had one large and one medium sized gaps to fix. It cures rock hard in about 12 hours in temperatures in the 60s. It smooths out easily if you pour a little lacquer thinner on it and your shaping tool. Clean your tools up with lacquer thinner as well. It cures to a light color and my deck stain didn't darken it much. Don't know how it will take paint or opaque stain. It's best to build it up a bit and then sand it down but sanding by hand, given its hardness will be taxing. I used an 80-grit disk on my orbital sander and it worked well. Overall, pretty good stuff but be patient as you work with it....but learn to work quickly if you're going to use a large amount of it at once..

Had to fix some wood rot on molding surrounding a window. This worked pretty well - but found the material generally not too easy to work with. It's extremely sticky - which makes it a difficult to shape as it sticks to any tool you are using. The only thing that cuts it to some degree is paint thinner - which you also need to clean up your tools afterwards. My conditions have not been ideal - temperatures have been cold overnight and highs during the day under 50 - so curing times have been very long to complete hardness- up to 2 days. In the end - the fix will work out well - but have used epoxy resin that is more workable.

Used on mull posts on my front entry door. The bottoms had rotted about 4-5 inches up. The kit was perfect for what I needed. The initial product hardens the rotted wood, after you remove the worst of it. You apply it the day before the epoxy. I applied the epoxy 3 times in order to get it properly shaped. Each layer bonded well to the prior layer. The initial layer bonded well to the rotten wood. It shapes and sands well after it hardens. Hardening time varies a lot depending on the temp, but that's okay and to be expected. Also, the instructions were well written, informative, and easy to follow. The only downside is that you don't get much epoxy.

Superb product for small wood rot repairs. I had minor wood rot in the usual places - lower door jam where it meets the threshold. I scraped out the rotted wood, used the wood hardener, and then filled it in with the epoxy filler. I figure the volume was about 2 cubic inches total. 24 hours later I sanded it smooth and painted it. Looks like new. I did another small project where a steel door had some rot in the inner wood core on the hinge side and it filled than in perfectly. Some tips: When you apply the epoxy, don't put it on too thick because it is hard to sand it. After it dried I just scraped it with the edge of a utility knife to get the shape (a sharp blade at 90 degrees to the epoxy works great to scrape off layers much quicker than sanding) I wanted and then it sanded out. This also makes it easy to get an edge on a board to make it look like one piece of wood. Great product and would recommend this to anyone! markowaleski.com

Very good stuff, you can repair just about any type of rotting or rotten wood with it. Obviously, surfaces have to be dry and free of debris, but other than that this stuff will get it done for you. And no, nobody paid me to write this review and nobody gave me free stuff either - I bought these full price so my money is where my mouth is. I vote we ban the paid reviews on products, who's with me? Anyway, I repaired my deck and couldn't be happier with the process - very simple, just apply elbow grease and you can turn old, creaky, dry-rot into solid, like-new wood textured surfaces. Sanding and painting optional.