Valterra E1003VP EZ Valve 3" Electric Waste Valve System,Black & Barker Valterra-Bristol Model Auto Drain, Grey, 1 1/2-Inch (24140)

The most important detail: I will NEVER go manual again! I decided I wanted to get a small used camper that was easy to tow, already had flaws so I wouldn’t worrying about ruining it, and one that I could buy outright. Enter the 2007 Outback 21rs. I will skip the list of fun headaches I have welcomed into my world of this hobby, and focus on the nasty instead. My very first tow was 500 miles, and in a hurry to dump and clean the tanks from whatever may have brewing for years in there, I discovered the valve seal had been needing replacement so had my very first black water dousing of “OPP”. Oops, did I reveal my age there?! Anyhow, the handle was bent, the seal was bad, and my face was literally right next to the exit pipe as my fingertips grasped the handle. I desperately feared replacement. I spent several months focused on cleaning and cleaning and cleaning the black tank in preparation to replace the valves. It had to be electric. I did not want to crawl halfway under my camper to pull on a handle with my face right at the exit pipe anymore. After researching different options, it ultimately came down to affordability for me. Valterra was already stamped on the cap covering my drain pipe, so why not?I crawled under my camper which already had a chunk of underbelly cut away from the past owner’s valve replacement adventures (see photo #2 OLD VALVES). Both my black and grey lines were 4” so I purchased a rubber coupler “just in case” per a YouTube video I had watched. Armed with buckets, a saw, screwdriver and new valves, I whimpered as I started opening up the bowels. Thank goodness for my deep cleaning sessions though, there was no odor from either end!The old valves came off after a bit of muscling, but the new valves did not have enough room to squeeze in. I tried for an hour, giving up, then grabbing the saw and the handy rubber coupler. THAT my friend, is worth doing regardless. I will NEVER have to fight and tug and pull again. Anyhow, new valves went in, I fed the wiring up through a hole where some other lines went through into the bathroom, and mounted the switches right on the vanity within reach of toilet and shower. I ran the power line (had to buy extra to extend it) under the space beneath the tub over to the fuse box and direct connected to its own fuse. It was WAY easier than I expected. I forgot to take pictures of the underside with the new valves though, so you only get to see my switches lol.Problem was, the power to the switches was “on” when it should have been off, so the switches were heating up fast in the closed position. I am not an electrician, but knew this was wrong and pulled the switches. The wiring diagram made no sense here since it came prewired on the switch and left this detail off the instructions. I ended up looking up stock photos online (see picture #3) and tried color matching my wires to the Valterra stock photos. Not kidding, that’s what I had to do since I didn’t know what I was doing there. It was Christmas Eve, Valterra was closed for the holidays, and no one was available anywhere to help me. I had to figure this out on my own. FINALLY after several attempts, I got the wires all in the right places and my valves worked! Some of these reviews mention the valves not working (as mine actually did not either), and I am wondering if it was because the wiring on the switches was just in the wrong places. There is no better sound than an electric dump valve opening when you are used to climbing under a camper to open them. I installed on Christmas Eve, camped every other weekend all winter and Spring and now into Summer and these things have made me so happy.I am faithfully using Thetford valve seal lube each time I drain my tanks/prefill in hopes that the seals last as long as possible. I am doing the Happy Camper/Calgon/Dawn dish soap method of tank treatment. My tanks are taken care of so well that I expect this setup to endure for quite a while. And guess what? If these valves fail and I have to replace them, I will gladly slap down the money to use them again. My wiring is done, and with the rubber coupler in place on the gray side, replacement will always be easy for me. Water rising in the shower because I forgot to check the level before climbing in? No problem! Reach my hand out the curtain and pop the switch! Cold outside? No problem! Flip the switch and then go sit on the couch and watch it drain from my window. Not kidding, electric valves should be standard. My 13 year old camper has them... how about yours?!!!

This was relatively easy to install, some RV electrical knowledge is helpful, dont fail to clean everything out before you start. If you are not using one or two of these for your wastewater you are just doing it wrong. A bit of spray lube on the mechanism once in a while and just watching to see that it is really working is all that is needed. you have to watch because it is done so fast you won’t believe it.

Does it work? Sure but seriously 4’ cord?? That reaches nothing on the front tank I had to add 3’ more but for the rear tank I had to add 21’ of cord.But then I saw that are out of California so that explains it all. Incompetent at best no one there has ever put these in an Rv

I received the valve today and I unpack aged it and found a very substantial valve and motor with a very substantial power cord attached. There are two connectors unattached, they are the two connectors that go to the circuit breaker and, as the thing operates on direct current, it doesn't matter which terminal the connectors are affixed to. The connections are left off to facilitate mounting the control panel and the two connections are made afterwards.I would recommend taking a photo of the wiring connections on the switch for future reference.UPDATE: We installed the valve and hooked it up and it works great. The hardest part is getting the valve in with the seals in place so it doesn't leak. What we did was put a strap around the down stream portion of the drain and my wife pulled on it just enough to spread the sections apart so I could get the valve in and seat the seals properly. It took about 20 minutes to get the valve in with the bulk of the time taken by removing and reinstalling the belly pan cover. We look forward to many years of easy black water draining. Perhaps in the future I will change out the grey water valve as well, but for not the push/pull is working easy enough. The black water valve was crappy from the start. Cheap valve.UPDATE: We've had the valve in place for while now and we just concluded a cross country and back trip logging just under 11,000 miles and the valve performed flawlessly. Very convenient not having to yank the valve T-Handle to drain the tank. I would highly recommend the valve. It worked great.

I purchased this for my rear black tank on 2019 Keystone Bullet 330bhs. I broke the cheap aluminum pull handle and decided to use the opportunity to upgrade. There were some minor issues with the installation .... the length of the control cable could be longer ... routed cable up through furnace duct passthrough and mounted the control plate to the outside of the rear bunk. I had measured decently but ended up with only about 1 inch of play in the cable.In order for the manual pull to be accessible, had to modify the underbelly area by notching out the 1" styrofoam insulation that I install and taping off using Gorilla tape. Once installed, the base of the electric valve assembly protruded below the level of the black coroplast but I had left enough extra when replacing the coroplast that I was able to cover unit .... with the exception of the handle when the valve is in the open position. A simple notch allowed this open fully ... and I plan to just loosely tape over this flap when traveling.Another minor issue was locating an acceptable 12V DC power source. Ended up tapping into the 12V connection of the tankless hot water heater and running a ground wire to the frame through the same furnace duct opening.All of these minor issues were easily overcome and the electric valve works like a charm. Highly recommend.

Seems to work great. Opens and closes very quickly. Easy to install just make sure you have the extra room for the additional size. I installed on the holding tank under our park model so space was not an issue

It was quite easy to install and came with everything required to install and make it operational. All RVs should have one of these instead of the manual one, especially Winnebago Sunstars.

This product works great so far. The installation was a b**ch. Only because the RV mfgr gave no room or clearance to separate existing plumbing fixtures. I purchased this to eliminate incorrectly installed cables on the valve system. Love how it works now.

I bought two of these for the ballast on my wake board boat. When they work, they are great, but one broke after only a few months.Maybe a defect?

$300.00 down the drain, never worked at all, cant contact seller, and no refund.I bought the baker units and they worked perfectly. Do not buy this unit at all.