Premium Waterslide Decal Paper Inkjet CLEAR - 20 Sheets - Water Slide Decal Transfer Transparent - A4 Size

I tested these decals to make icon cabochons for projects on several materials. In the picture; glass (clear and white), acrylic- white (large middle of Christ is on a white acrylic bead), wood (painted white) and metal. Decals are slightly translucent when using lighter colors so a reflective metal background gives off a beautiful luster through the decal. It would be interesting to try it on wood with grain or materials with a design/print. Also topped one with resin which enhanced the decal's colors. The others I will probably top with clear coat. I ordered some clear glass cabochons so I could try the decal on the back of the glass to save labor.I ruined my first few. The paper is extremely thin so you must clear coat it well before transferring. I used three coats of Krylon Triple Thick on the whole page before cutting. I accidentally sprayed a water based clear coat for my first coat but nothing ran. If the decal doesn't slide easily put it back in the water. Several of the tested objects have curved surfaces and edges. No problem on the slightly curved tops but had a little trouble smoothing it out around some edges. Tore it a few times but I'm covering the edges anyway. You can always add more clear coat to future decals if you find yourself tearing it too often.I've wanted to try water slide decals for years. Glad I took the plunge.

I've used this decal paper about three times so far for application on different surface types of RC model planes...foam, plastic and monokote. First, when the printer is set to highest quality print, the colors are very dense / opague. The print must then be dried with a hairdryer and this is a very quick process. You then spray the decal with clear acrylic to permanently protect the ink. This is also done via hairdryer and takes only a couple of minutes. The decal releases very quickly when placed in warm, slightly soapy water. It should then be gently slid off the paper directly onto the prewetted intended surface. Prewetting with lightly soaped water enables the decal to be repositioned. Very nice product and will order again.

The clear acrylic spray is really important to make sure and cover the picture or printing really well. My first try at it the letters started to bleed. On the instructions it doesn't say how long to bake the item. So I looked around and found another manufacturer that suggested 110 degrees for 10-15 mins. The lowest degrees my oven goes to is 175 degrees. So I did 175 degrees for about 5 to 10 mins. I just kept checking it. My second try at the Waterslide Decal was a success.

My first purchase was evidently a bad batch. The paper never separated after carefully following standard procedure for waterslide paper for several sheets. I never received the promised instructions from the company so I contacted them upon my dismay. They were most apologetic and issued me a new set at once. The new batch of paper works as advertised. While some other waterslide papers I’ve used in the past have required light spraying of clear sealer, this one has performed better with a little heavier coats. I’ve been completely satisfied with my merchandise and I’ve continued business with them with more purchases. It always helps to have great customer service.

Unlike other waterslide decals I have used, these aren't really decals per se. Its a layer of water based adhesive that absorbs ink on a paper backing.(see second picture...this is just gummy adhesive) They print wonderfully and they take the ink well. I also had no problems using a clear acrylic and it sticking to the paper over the ink. The issue is that there is NO clear sheet that you actually print on. It's the clear fixative that becomes the decal once dry. (see pictures) This means two things; first, the decal is thin and brittle and the dried clear fixative and will easily tear or crack if you try to adhere it to something too small of a diameter, in my case a fishing rod label. Second, it has very little to NO adhesive left once dry causing it to not stick to the surface with anything other than water tension. Additionally, removing the decals from the backing is difficult and 9 out of 10 tries results in a deformed or torn label. It also needs to be noted the manufacturer instructs you to dry the labels after printing in an oven for 15 minutes. A completely worthless product for my application.

I decided to improve my model building by making decals for custom builds, like my scratch 47" Graf Zeppelin. The paper works great and it's easy enough once you get the hang of it. I used Testors bonding spray. One star off for the not that helpful, simplistic "print, spray, and voila!" instructions. Those decal sheets? That's my second try. The first batch was ruined when I spayed too thick of a 2nd coat that made the colors run. (But not the black lettering). So, always use light coats because the spay will penetrate the previous dried coat. I'm still figuring out the best amount of spray. More coats than needed (8) made for a thicker than necessary decal and wasted spray, but they functioned well. Also, I had a real "I feel stupid" moment when I realized that my Canon ink jet printer doesn't print white. Duh. White is no ink at all, AKA clear. No problem, I can paint the spot white and put the decal over it. The decals are semi-translucent and not as opaque as decals in a model kit, except for black, so painting the spot white is probably a good idea anyway.

Lässt sich wunderbar sauber bedrucken. Da die Tinte meines Druckers nicht Wasserfest ist, muss ich (wie in der Anleitung auch erwähnt) eine dünne Schicht Klarlack über das getrocknete Druckbild geben. Dann funktioniert die Übertragung auf z.B. eine Gitarren-Kopfplatte problemlos.