Polymaker Fiberon PPS-CF10 Filament Black 1.75mm 0.5kg, Extreme Heat Resistance - Fiberon Carbon Fiber Reinforced PPS 3D Printing Filament Ideal for Molding

I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)...I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it's not just a side hobby. It's not work but it's an obsession. I've had many printers, I've tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I'm going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament.By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It's a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it's just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It's an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it'll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that.Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it.I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you'll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the "print one at a time" (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it'll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor...Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it's amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works...... Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You're left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary.A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I'm sure it's because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I'm sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you'll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength.Guess that's really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use "alternate wall printing direction" or something like that. I'm sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom.This is my summary. I'm using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I'm honestly not even sure how it works.But regardless, I'm getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional.I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping.And so on and on.And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced...(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping).I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.

This review is for the PA6-GFMy settings: Neptune 4 plus with enclosure, Microswiss hotend and upgraded fan shroud. Nozzle 290, bed 50 (yes, only 50). And you definitely need a hardened nozzle AND hardened gears.I was blown away by how easy this is to use. I have more consistent success with this filament than even PLA. The parts are incredibly strong, I was able to thin the walls of some of my prop designs from 12mm in PLA Plus to 4mm with this. It also had a slight flex to it which helps with impact resistance (so it won't just shatter).They also look great! Layer lines are hardly noticeable even at 0.2mm layer heights. It comes out with a rough texture that can be sanded. And so far I have had no adhesion issues. Supports usually snap off, although sometimes I need to use a razor blade on the tiny supports where they meet the print. Still, no worse than PLA.That said, there are some things to keep in mind:You have to print from and actively heated filament dryer. I splurged and got the EIBOS Polyphemus dryer, which was $150ish. I wanted it anyway but a good dryer that can consistenly keep the temperature at 70 is a must (70C is what I use for all prints with this filament).I also print with an enclosure. I'm not sure if you need it for the filament itself, but it gives off toxic particles. I have an activated carbon filter running at all times in the enclosure, you should too.Lastly, this is fiberglass. Working with fiberglass is dangerous, ESPCIALLY inhaling any particles. I recommend handling the prints with gloves (they have a rough texture and there's a risk of tiny glass splinters). And ALWAYS use a respirator when sanding these parts.At $120 for 3kg it's not a bad deal. I've stocked up on some rolls in case of coming tariffs, but I'll definitely be using this for a long time.

If you have a suitable, enclosed 3D printer, with a very high temperature Hotend....Fiberon PPS-CF10 is the greatest!It prints well with no unmanageable warping and prints come out with good precision of dimensions provided it is dry.Parts are strong, stiff, stable, extremely temperature resistant and non-flammable.... this just refuses to burn, even when held in a propane torch, it just melts.It does need to be dry but is fairly easy to dry in an oven set to 100C.Expensive? Not really for a high-grade Engineering material. My new go-to.