UlincosMomentary Push Button Switch U16B1 1NO Silver Stainless Steel Shell with Green LED Ring Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole (Green)

As you can see from the attached pics, the before was a sad and dilapidated doorbell button that had started malfunctioning. After some filing of the brass plate to remove the years of pitting and ugliness and some flat black paint (matches my mailbox) and finally installing this new button, it looks and works fantastically!!! I provided an alternative connection diagram.CAUTION: this is only to be done if you know what you are doing and know for certain that your doorbell circuit is as follows:1) 12Vac doorbell system that uses a step-down transformer from 110Vac to 12Vac2) two wires only to button with measured AC voltage <= 12Vac between the wires3) chime actuator uses a solenoid that becomes connected to the transformer secondary THROUGH the SPST momentary pushbutton (being replaced by this product) when depressedHow it works:Ring LED ON while doorbell button NOT pushed, LED OFF when pushed, LED ON once released. So effectively "LED always ON" since pushing the small button mostly hides the LED ring light by any finger except, perhaps a child's.How to wire it (implement at your OWN risk! As Morpheus says "I’m trying to free your mind, Neo. But I can only show you the door. You’re the one that has to walk through it."):With the LED+ tied to one side of the SPST contacts and LED- tied to the other and the two circuit wires connected to the SPST contacts (see scribbly diagram)....what you have is the following:While the button is NOT pushed, the LED ring light completes the path between the transformer secondary (12Vac [mine measures 11.56Vac]) and the chime solenoid. However, the LED limits the current once forward biased into the ON state. (NOTE: if current driven, LED brightness can be controlled but if voltage driven, like here, the LED sets a current that only slightly changes as it warms up). According to the spec, the LED current max is 15mA. I measured the LED current in my setup to be 4.63mAac and the voltage present at the solenoid coil to be 0.036Vac so most of my 11.56Vac is dropped across the LED. This is FAR TOO LITTLE to drive the solenoid so the chime will not sound. The LED power dissipation is (11.56Vac - 0.036Vac)*0.0046Aac*0.707*0.707 = ~0.027W (27mW) RMS power to operate continuously which is trivial. The solenoid dissipates 0.036Vac*0.707*0.00463Aac*0.707 = 8.83e-5W (88.3 uW) RMS power which is insignificant. Now, when the button is pushed, the direct connection between the SPST contacts allows full intended current to flow to the chime solenoid thereby sounding the doorbell AND it turns the LED off since both inputs (+,-) are connected to the same electrical point. If there is no voltage "across" the LED for forward bias, it simply turns off. I've been running this for about 1 week now and I've checked every part of the circuit. Nothing gets warm (given the power values, nothing should) and all is right as rain. Again, this is only to be attempted if you know what you are doing and the doorbell circuit is confirmed to be as described above. Happy wiring!

The switch looks as good as the listing shows, and it seems solid and has operated reliably for the few weeks I've owned it. I'm using it as a doorbell switch on a 16V AC system so I needed to install a resistor in series with the light to drop the voltage to 12V, and that was an adventure. The lug holes are tiny. Just large enough for the doorbell wire, so getting both a wire and one resister lead into a hole took a fair amount of work to thin the wire without unacceptably weakening it. Eventually, though, I got it all together and it is working as it should.Probably an easier alternative would have been to run a single insulated wire to the switch lug and connect both the resistor and house wire to that. I wasn't confident, though, that there was enough room behind the switch to fit all that into the wall. And if you're thinking of doing that, it's probably easier and cheaper to buy one of the switches that accept a socket with wire leads instead of this switch with its screw lugs.Finally, the screws in the lugs seem cheaply made. None broke, but the philips head were not sharply cut so it took a fair amount of pressure to keep the screw driver engaged in the head without slipping. Not a big deal, but room for improvement.

Looks great. The surface area of the button is smaller than the garage door opener that it replaced, but it's very responsive so it's not as though it takes any special aim to hit the button. The old button was flaky - it would often take 4 or 5 presses before responding. So, it wasn't going to take much to improve my experience. This little guy looks good, easy easy to see in dim conditions, is responsive to touch, and did I mention it looks good? It's all metal construction should outlast the plastic jobby it replaced. Happy enough that I've just ordered two more to replace the remaining garage door buttons.Note: Some reviews have mentioned the small wire receiving holes in the terminal posts. Honestly, I have no idea how you would get two wires into any one of those terminals. Since I wired mine for 'always on' LED operation, I simply fed each of the existing wires in my outlet box through the appropriate terminals in series. Worked like a charm - one wire through each terminal. Clean and simple. Might have taken 5 minutes - including the time to find some good reading glasses (the terminals are small!)

This is described as a "heavy duty switch", but this is a description of the product itself and not of its load capacity. Nestled in the description is the true rating - only 2 amps. I wound up not being able to use it for my needs.Although the body of the switch is solid metal, which is a nice feature, the switch itself is very chintzy. Instead of tabs for crimped 1/8" or 3mm spade connectors, the connections on the bottom are internal screw terminals designed for bare or tinned wires which are inserted at an angle rather than upward through the bottom which would make more sense. The arrangement of the terminals requires bending the ends of the wires at a harsh angle, and allow the wire to stick through the other side of the terminal where it could easily short circuit with another connection if it was not assembled carefully, if the wire was not trimmed or if the wire became loose over time - a high likelihood as the screw terminals seem to be loose fitting. The action is squishy and there is no detent or other positive action to give you feedback on where and if the switch engages. The button also recesses into the switch body when pressed which is a nice aesthetic feature, but is slightly too small for my index finger.As I was unable to use the switch for my project, I am unable to provide any kind of in-situ review. I will edit this review if I am able to use the switch in the future.

Bien faitPlus perit que jimaginais mais fait bien

This is a very well made switch but the button is too small to be pressed in by adult fingers. The center of the button that moves to activate the switch rests flush with the surface of the button. In order to activate, you have to press the center down into the button. My fingers aren't very big, but it is difficult for me to press the center down because my finger makes contact with the surface of the switch and will not fit into the hole. If the center was raised and the button just needed to be pushed flush to activate, this switch would have scored 5 stars.

Works great. Terminals are a bit small but will do. Will also order the 3/4 switch later too for something else.

simple button

The fastening screws were to small had to return