Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield, Automatic

The first thing to know about this unit is that it is well thought out to be versatile for any number of interesting projects. In my case it was recommended for use with an rPi Connected to the Internet which allowed remote control of a ham radio. Works perfectly.The unit has four US-style AC female outlets. One is marked always on and the power supply for the rPi is connected there. One is marked normally on, which I don't currently use since it will switch off when the unit is triggered. And the other two outlets are marked normally off. There is a small standard DC connector on the side ready for your wires, and which accepts a wide variety of DC inputs to trigger the relay that switches the unit. When DC power is applied to the relay, the normally off units turn on and then normally on unit turns off and the always on unit remains always on.For the DC input I use two pins off the rPI; the remote software has three sets of pinouts configured for an on off DC style switch. (With this third party software I can have up to three switches or devices with separate on/off.)Ham radio inside a building typically runs off of a physically separate power supply. Most of these are large beasts, sometimes with loud fans, and they draw a reasonable amount of power just sitting and get hot. So I connected the power supply AC cord to the switch. Now when I want to access my ham radio from a remote location I log into my software, and the first thing I do is actuate the ac power to the via radio power supply via the unit sold here. (Next, the software determines the state of the radio, turns it on now that the power supply is energized, and I can conduct my radio operations remotely from there).The really useful and important factor for me is that I can de-energize the radio power supply in addition to turning the radio off with its own on off switch.You may well think of 1004 other more creative uses for the unit. The important part is that it works well and seems to be solidly built, and definitely does the trick for me.ONE MINOR CAVEAT: Since I have the radio plugged into a "normally off" outlet, the only way to energize the radio outlet is via my remote software. It would be really helpful to have a momentary-press button available to actuate the relay manually at the unit as if it had been actuated by a DC input.But this is a minor quibble, and if I'm going to be away for a length of time, it isn't a problem because I don't have the need of the manual turn on of the power.

This is just the product I needed to automate a DIY cooling fan via the 12V trigger from my Onkyo A/V receiver. It is a nice, compact box that looks and feels very robust and durable with surprising heft for its size and the addition of a 3.5mm male mono jack to bare wire cable was all that was needed to get up and running in no time. This really is a terrific product for this price point ($25 at my time of purchase) and I doubt I could build one for less, but I do know that I can avoid possible electrocution by not trying to DIY something like this. I do have two complaints about this device, one minor and one not so minor. The minor gripe is the use of adhesive labels that curl up on the corners in lieu of printing the information directly on the case, which would look a lot nicer. The major gripe is that there is no UL or ETL listing, which is a big one for me. I have vowed to never use any electric devices that don’t have a UL or ETL listing, but I went ahead and bought this because there are no other products like this on the market and the reviews here on Amazon, as well as several online forums, are very positive, so fingers crossed. I know testing costs money, but it seems as if the company could balance that expense out with more sales from the people that won’t buy unlisted products. It does work very well at turning the fan on and off simultaneously with (and sometimes slightly before) the receiver, so good 12V triggering from the receiver and good sensitivity from the device. Hopefully, there will be no regrets about the lack of UL or ETL listing, because I really like this device despite the rather cheap-looking adhesive labels.

This is an AWESOME device for controlling outlets. Great for IoT applications where you don't want to deal with the latency or unreliability of commercial Wifi outlets. Targeted more towards the maker/hacker crowd, since you will have to build your own controller or other mechanism for triggering the switch. Great for building an application where you need to trigger 120 VAC with a relay, but want to avoid the safety and packaging issues of dealing with high voltage yourself.This devices gives you a simple, robust optically isolated relay for 120 VAC in a safe and attractive package. Added bonus that it also includes surge suppression.My unit was slightly different than the one pictured in the listing: My unit has two "normally off" (aka "switched" outlets), but it has one "normally on" and one "always on" outlets. A previous reviewer here showed a simple mod for converting the "normally on" to "always on" outlets. With the new version of the product, you now get one always on outlet to work with.I am using this to turn on and off a set of speakers and subwoofer when my TV turns on. I have the speakers plugged in to the "normally off" plug, and use the 5 VDC power from a USB port on the TV to trigger the switch. In my case, I was able to configure the TV so that the USB ports turn off when the TV is off. There is about a 5 minute delay for this to turn off, so this works perfectly for controlling the audio.

I used mine to connect the 12 volt trigger from a WiiM Ultra streamer to a Son of Ampzilla amp (a vintage 70’s power amp with no power switch). It works perfectly! Amp turns on when the WiiM is turned on and turns off when the WiiM enters standby again. Since I can activate and control the WiiM with the WiiM Home app on my phone, I can completely control the system remotely. It even turns off automatically when no signal is detected for 2 minutes. I also plugged the power supply for my turntable into one of the switched outlets. The WiiM is powered from one of the “always on” outlets. This way, the entire system is powered (both switched and unswitched) from this unit.