Bosch13725 Premium Original Equipment Oxygen Sensor - Compatible with Select Nissan Pickup

If you own a S Class Mercedes (2000-2006) this is a must have. You should always keep a spare in the car because these things sometimes go out with very little or no prior notice. This little Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) will leave you high and dry sitting in a lonely parking lot after taking in a movie and dinner on your first date. You proudly walk over to your hundred thousand dollar car, turn the key and all you get is that err, err, err, err, err, noise. You know, the kind that makes you very weak in the knees. Now you're stranded in your big bad ride that won''t start and your first time date is starting to think that you just might be a loser.But wait!!! You jump out of the car and tell your date that it is only going to take you a few minutes to fix the problem because you know exactly what is wrong. Ten or fifteen minutes later you're back in the car. turn that key and BAM, she starts right up. All of a sudden you have gone from loser to a very intelligent individual. You just might get the opportunity for a second date.

Bought my car used with no records so I had no idea when these were changed. My car was not giving me any problems or codes but as preventative maintenance I decided to change them.It was quite easy but time consuming for me. The reason for this is I was using a Crows Foot (22mm) rather than an O2 sensor socket. If you decided to get an O2 sensor socket, make sure it is thick because if the O2 sensor is stuck on really hard then the socket may bend.The O2 sensor is located on the passenger side of the vehicle on the exhaust. Nothing needs to be removed to get to them. You can see one close to the positive cable nut (refer to picture) and the other near the secondary air pump, both along the side of the engine.Remove the wires that go to the O2 sensors from the brackets that are on the engine. Then disconnect one O2 sensor. Remove and install one at a time so you don't confuse the wires. Use a pick or a similar tool to remove the wires from the O2 sensors.My O2 sensor was stuck on really hard. I used PB Blaster to loosen the hold on both O2 sensors and let them sit for a day. Next day I went at it and it came off with ease. Only problem with using a Crows Foot is that you have to take it off at each turn. What makes it time consuming is that due to the wire, it will try to twist back into it's original position. My advice is to twist it with the Crows Foot, hold the O2 sensor with your spare hand and then reposition the Crows Foot on the O2 sensor and turn. Repeat. Keep doing this and it will eventually come off. Or you can just buy a good O2 sensor socket and get it off in less than 10 seconds.The new O2 sensor already comes with anti seize on the threads so you do not need to buy that. Leave the plastic caps on the thread on until you are ready to install so that you don't remove the anti seize.You need to push in while turning to get the sensor to thread in.

My 05 S430 couldn't be started 1st time after a short stop. I ordered this part and installed by myself. It has been 2 weeks and so far so good!The original part shows both BENZ and BOSCH part #s, and this part only shows BOSCH Part#.Here is the rough steps to uninstall after I had watched a couple of good videos from you tube:1. you don't need to uninstalled heat shield, just bent or push it down so you have more room to work with E8 torx bolt. I did not do this when I unscrewed the bolt, it was difficult as no enough room to make socket straight on the bolt due to heat shield in the way and i had to use 1/4 socket.2. use both 1/4 or 3/8 E8 torx socket (if heat shield push down). I used 1/4 E8 torx socket + Universal Joint and 10" 1/4 extension to un-screw the bolt3. use telescoping magnetic pick up tool to suck the bolt out !!!4. use Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers to pull the plug with sensor (don't need to unplug the wire plug)5. new part is a little tight so I sand it a bit so it is easier to be inserted in and adjusted to the position for bolt6 push or bent heat shield down so more room for working with bolt (I think this is an important step, I should do when i uninstall the sensor)7 with wire is still plugged to the sensor, use long reach hose grip pliers or hand to insert the sensor8. put E8 bolt on the socket (long or shot socket - does not matter as you already bent the heat shield downward so more room) with 2 layer of paper towels between bolt and socket so the bolt is held by socket tightly. Extend the socket with 1/4 4" extension + 4" 3/8 extension (with no universal joint used this time) so it is easier to get bolt to be screwed in.9. bent heat shield back or leave it as isHighlights;-- push down heat shield to get more room for finding and inserting bolt-- 8" or 10" 1/4" or 3/8" (if heat shield pushed down) extension rod-- wire plug does not need to be unplugged-- Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers used for pulling/inserting sensor-- telescoping magnetic pick up tool to pull bolt out when un-installingfeel confident to do it yourself as dealer changes 2 hours for labor.

After getting performance issues with my Golf and reduced mpg I swapped the MAF (Mass Air Flow) with a known working one and the performance was restored. The issue I had was when the engine was cold there would be hardly any power up until about 2.5k revs then all of a sudden a lot of power. The fuel filter and glow plugs had also been changed as these needed doing anyway. This Bosch replacement is the exact same model number removed from Golf, the only difference is this new one doesnt have the Audi / VW logo which is fine. Amazon was the cheapest place I could fine a genuine Bosch one, I called VW just out of interest and they charge £140 and they need your old back as I assume they refurbish them. So I feel this was a bargain at just under £80 from Amazon direct (not a 3rd party seller)

2005 Volvo s40 2.4i petrol struglle few times with start, didn't always run smooth or sometimes bit lacking power.After failed attempt on start Engine Check light came onPurchased OBD2 scaner and error code was P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor A Circuit.Quick search on google for people experience and it was possible that sensor could fail or its wireing or somthing with fuel pressure system: pump etc. But most people changed sensor and problem went away. Had a look around wires all seemed ok. I have purchased this one because it is exacly the same part number as original one on car even if amazon says it isn't compatible with my car. Sensor came next day it was identical to the BOSH one on car apart from missing small volvo logo. Replacement very easy. Undo plastic colorful cap on righr side looking aft from fuel rail. Put cloth underneath and using screwdriver press tyre like valve to release fuel pressure. In the left side looking aft gently unclip and slide timebelt upper cover for access. Undo electric connector. Put cloth underneeth sensor as some fuel will come out. Undo 1x T25 torx bolt holding sensor and wiggle out old sensor. Install new one. Connect electric connector and timebelt cover. Start the car. Car worked perfectly and problem went away. Time for cup of coffee.Did now nearly 2000 miles and problem didn't came back.

Extremely pleased with this purchase for my 2002 VW Passat 1.8T. It is almost one fifth of the price from my local garage - but is exactly the same product! I was a bit dubious at first, but I searched on the Bosch website for my vehicle model number - and up came this part number. So I was confident that it was the correct part, but thought maybe it was manufactured elsewhere, so perhaps not so good quality?But I was wrong! This is a 100% genuine full-spec Bosch part manufactured in Germany. See the pictures of the packaging I have uploaded. The sensor comes complete with a full installation kit and has the proper connector already fitted. Some other sensors don't include this and you have to fit the connector yourself.It is now installed in my car, and it works perfectly. I wasn't sure if my sensor needed replacing but after replacing half a dozen other components in the vacuum system and still having the MIL light coming on, I thought it worth a try, especially at this amazing price.A couple of tips if you are thinking of buying one. Firstly, do NOT remove the protective cap from the sensor until you intend to install it. It is there to keep the special lubricant in place so you can remove it in the future. Secondly, you must remove the old sensor whilst the exhaust is hot otherwise you can't get it out. Be very careful, protect your arms and hands from burns from the exhaust and engine block. Thirdly you must use a special 22mm oxygen sensor socket spanner, they are about £10 - but its impossible to remove without one.It appears to be a recommendation to replace this (upstream) sensor every 100K miles. My car has only done about 65K but the sensor had been contaminated with a silicon sealer used to seal the rocker gasket. Oxygen sensors do NOT like silicon - mine worked but was slow response, reduced the engine power output and caused lumpy idling. Much better now.

You guys are a life savour ! I was on holiday 400 miles from Home when my EML light came on with error p0193 fuel pressure rail sensor ... got this delivered to a local Amazon locker by where I was staying , swapped the part in about 15 mins and the cars good as new ... Ford direct wanted £98!! Thankyou so muchCar - Focus st 2.5 ( 2007)

2007 1.6 Petrol Mini Cooper Hatch - Engine Management light/MIL lit. Diagnostics gave code P0366 - Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1.Fitted this and MIL went out when the ignition was next on. Have cleared the code and now no rough idling anymore, so far so good.This is an excellent quality genuine Bosch part, which came the next afternoon with 1-day prime.Most importantly, the GF is happy that the Engine Management light is out and it's running smoothly again!I plan to buy this again to update the other sensor at the next service or when it goes too, whichever is sooner.