Expert Connect 3x1 HDMI Switch | 3 Port | 3 in - 1 Out | Ultra HD 4K/2K @ 60Hz (60 fps) | HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2 | Full HD/3D | 1080P | DTS | Digital Audio | Direct TV | 18 Gbps Bandwidth

At the time of this purchase, it was (still) hard to find an HDMI switch with proper 4K 60hz support with the latest options (HDMI standards, 4K 60z, etc.). This particular product did list everything I was looking for, so for my own little experiment I went for it. This was to be tested with a 4K TV that supported HDR on one HDMI port only, versus on all 3 (this I think is somewhat common on less expensive models of most brands). So of course, the only way to "pretend" there are three ports with HDR support is to get a switch like this. The other ports on the switch were to be used with a Roku, a gaming console (both HDR supported), and also a PC to mess around with the full color modes so I could test all the ports together.The HDMI switch worked as intended. The auto-switching between the ports is pretty seamless, and the little LED's on each input (blue for active, red for inactive) show up just fine. Funny enough, since Roku's don't actually turn off, but stay on standby, it always reads it as more of an active input with the blue light, but this is not a fault of the device, just funny Roku standby stuff. It in no way affects how the switch goes to other devices. If a gaming console, TV etc. is turned on, it will auto-switch to it. Now, if all ports are in use at once, it may just go to the last device that was powered on, so the little remote easily switches between them, as well as the button on the front of the device. I prefer the little remote myself (but it's good to have both options for backup purposes).I also tested this out with a computer input to see how well it worked. When using the TV for a second display, I was able to output to the TV at 4K 60hz with a color depth of 8bpc at the "Full RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format PC Standard (Full RGB)" mode, and the colors looked great. I could not go higher than 8bpc through the switch input or else the display would go black, even though I could tell it was trying to read it. I have no idea if it may work differently on better TV models (with the irony being that they would probably support HDR on all inputs, anyway), but that's not anything to dock points over. I was more concerned about the full 4K 60hz RGB 4:4:4 support, as that's much more important to me, and it did just that.So, in conclusion, if you're in a similar setup like I'm using with the single HDMI with HDR support and need more inputs for HDR, this switch should be able to do everything it supports. If HDR is no concern, it will still act as a decent futureproof device (for when/if you need HDR later) in a 60hz environment. Either way, I recommend this product based on my experience with it.EDIT: I ran into the funny flickering/black screen Roku issue recently, which I think was from an update, as it had always worked before. I changed the setting to 4K 60hz (no HDR) through a direct HDMI connection rather than the switch (or else it's a struggle to go through the menus with the flickering), then went into the general settings. Settings -> System -> Advanced System Settings -> Advanced Display Settings, then changed the "HDR subsampling" to 4:2:0, and it worked again.Also, on the PC end of things, whether it was switching from a DisplayPort to HDMI cable (to HDMI only), or a driver/video card difference, the 4K refresh rate stays locked at 30hz now, but I believe it is not related to this device. Even though I can see the 60hz option and select it (and apply), it resets back to 30hz (despite the HDMI cable still supporting 4K 60hz and trying others). Not sure what the real culprit is. I can set the color settings to whatever I want and they'll stay, but I'm not certain as to why even the previous 8bpc "Full RGB 4:4:4 Pixel Format PC Standard (Full RGB)" 60hz option (that worked) is swapping back to 30hz now.

I bought this switch because it says it supports HDPC 2.2 and 18Gbps streams. I don't currently have an appropriate source to test all the capabilities, and will update this review when I do (coming soon). So far, it's working fine on 1080p sources out of the box.I subtracted one star because of the arrangement of the connectors. If you look in the picture, you'll note that it's basically impossible to use all 3 ports, and difficult to use even one with the Fire TV Stick plugged in, due to the power cord for the Fire TV Stick. I can probably find a 90 degree microUSB connector and resolve this, or I could use it as a 2 port switch. Ideally, the output would have been in the middle, leaving the outside connectors, including the connector that is being used as the output, free for such a device. Could I have figured this out before ordering? Sure, but I didn't. It's something you should be aware of if you're going to use something similar.Edit: I actually realized the other day that I still had the Fire TV Stick box and that inside it, Amazon had included a short HDMI extender, which addressed the problem.

Pros:–Unit appears to work for some people, not all, not me, depends on hardware connected.–Seemed OK with a Sony UBP-X800, 4K UHD blu-ray player and MediaWorx over-the-air HDTV module, and might be OK with standard cable boxes. Since I stream TV service, don’t know about cable box compatibility. My TV is 49" LG 4K UHD, has HDMI 2.0a/b, HDR10, 4:2:2, and HDCP v2.2 features. All new HDMI cables are 6 or 3 feet, rated 4K, HDMI 2.0a/b and HDCP 2.2 compliant.--The Sony UBP-X800 blu-ray did play Ultra blu-ray content at 4K@60Hz.–Reading reviews, appears PS4 and Roku owners experience the most issues with a lot of these switches.Cons:–First and foremost, it is not compatible with my Roku Premiere+ streaming module even after making all setup adjustments mentioned by others. Display screen either is totally black, the Roku icon screen flickers wildly or the display screen pops-up No Signal Detected. The selected LED on the switch panel is red when it should be blue. Roku is my streaming device of choice coupled with SlingTV. Changing display sampling rate from 4:2:2 to 4:2:0 as suggested didn’t help. Tried multiple system off/on cycles, Roku system restart, moved cables around, nothing improved.–Tested on a different 1080p TV and Panasonic blu-ray player, receiving content through a USB Roku Streaming Stick, works OK, but that setup in a guest room doesn’t compare with the main 4K system.–Unit is small and lightweight. After attaching cables to ports, the front raises up, looks cheap, have to use double-sided tape on the underside to keep the unit horizontal on a flat surface. Cut a small piece of wood, painted flat black, added tape to keep the unit level.Other thoughts:–Ultra 4K blu-ray is typically very crisp on the 4K TV using a direct cable connection, didn’t feel it was as sharp routing through this switch. After testing and removing Roku from the chain, blu-ray did flash note that movie content was 4K, HDR, 4:2:2, HDCP 2.2–Invested a fair amount of time, tried various connection combinations, gave it a shot, it’s going back. Shopping for something different, might try DotStone.--Edit as of June 22 before returning unit. Tried one last time using only the Roku Premiere+ streamer, the switch does not like it. After the return, found a note from a different seller suggesting to change display output from 4K@60Hz to 4K@30Hz in addition to 4:2:0. This info might help others.

The product does not work as it was offered, or arrived with defects. I have a PS4 and an XboxOne S, when I put the switch to the PS4 it works fine, but when I connect the XboxOne s, the signal drops, you see a black screen on the TV, and it locks completely. I need to unplug the TV and the switch. Already try with different HDMI cables and the same thing happens. The XboxOne S works with 4K and HDR with 8 bits, 10 bits and 12 bits. In the specifications of the switch says that it works at 4K 60 hz HDR