Toyota00289-ATFWS Lexus & Automatic Transmission Fluid WS ATF World Standard, Pack of 4

Ive bought this WS fluid here on Amazon 3 or 4 times. Im an ASE certified Master Technician and I can tell you what I received is the same fluid as the Toyota dealer just cheaper and I dont have to go pick it up.

Transmissions are a vital component in our cars, and with more electronic control, increased number of gears, and increased city driving/traffic, we need to do maintenance on our car's transmissions periodically. Toyota's BS about "lifetime transmission fluid" means that the fluid will keep your transmission working at least through their warranty. If you plan on leasing or selling your car off before it acts up, I wouldn't bother with the maintenance. For me, we plan to keep our cars longer than the warranty, and I did some research on fluids.The forums are littered with 2 perspectives: use only toyota WS fluid, and those that are using something better, like amsoil or equivalent. I'm part of the initial group, and although WS isn't the best fluid there is out there, it works and if I change it often, it'll work fine for my needs. I suppose there's a 3rd group who will use other fluids as well (valvoline maxlife is what I'm thinking here), but multi-manufacturer fluids may not work perfectly for every brand. YMMV.I've done fluid swaps on an '08 yaris, '18 camry, '12 prius, '14 yaris, and '16 avalon. All take WS, and all have different drain/fill techniques. All had drastically different mileage intervals where the fluid was swapped, but all are running down the road equal to how they were before. The common thing on all these was I didn't flush the transmission, but just did a drain and fill. Each car was roughly 2-3 quarts drained, and for the cars with dipsticks, I measured the drained and added back the equivalent and checked the dipstick. For those like the prius, it's similar to a manual transmission or transfer case where you drain, fill until it falls out the fill hole, and cap. For those without dipsticks, I use a temperature gun to measure transmission temperature while idling after draining and refilling with a bit extra fluid, then drain excess fluid when it's at the correct temperature. This is somewhere around 104-114F. You can also use a higher level code scanner or scan gauge to read transmission fluid temperature, though the temperature gun was sufficient for my usage.I'd recommend ~30k mile intervals for those who like doing maintenance frequently and if you do more city than highway miles. I'd also say this is a good benchmark if you tow or have heavy loads consistently. Otherwise, I'd go 50-60k mile intervals for normal maintenance and/or more highway miles. Considering it's $10 a quart, 3 quarts, about $30 to do a fluid drian/fill, it's cheap insurance for a healthy transmission. Since most transmissions hold upwards of 12 quarts, 3 quarts changed isn't much of the total capacity, but will refresh the fluid slightly. I know there are plenty that never change their fluid and the cars still last a long time, but for me, I'd rather just do the maintenance and keep my transmission shifting smoothly.As for the review of the fluid, works great. No complaints other than I had several of the bottles seep/leak during shipping. Amazon took care of this however and all the cars that used this fluid are working as expected many thousands of miles later.

It's the correct fluid for the Prius. Use it or risk using the wrong fluid. 305,000+ miles and going (and going).

good product

Its oem trans fluid

There is a high intensity LED light behind the first sample and then the second sample. The "dark" fluid is the transaxle drain oil from my 2007 Prius with ~200,000 miles on it. The right vial contains the new fluid that replaced it. To its credit, the old fluid kept a lot of contaminants in suspension. My transmission was not functioning abnormally, I just felt that at 200k miles, it was time to change it. This feeling was supported by observation of the removed fluid.TIPS:The drain and fill plugs were a little difficult to remove, and I ended up using my electric impact wrench since I was starting to round the corners on my Fill Plug trying to remove it (24mm 12 pt socket). The impact worked, but I had to remove additional plastics to get access to the fill plug using the impact. I replaced the crush washers (which are identical) on both plugs. To do this quickly, ramps are a big help. From the ramps, crack loose, but do not remove the fill and drain plugs. Back the car off of the ramps and onto level ground. Place a drain pan under the drain plug (10mm allen socket) and fully remove the plug allowing the fluid to drain into the pan. When empty, replace the plug using a new crush washer. Torque to specification.Use a second person to help. Remove the fill plug. Using a funnel with a three foot piece of 3/8 ID clear vinyl hose attached (so you can see the fluid), place a 3/8 inch barbed plastic elbow at the end of the hose. Do not put any more hose on the other side of the barbed "L". The smaller diameter of this elbow will slip inside the transmission fill hole loosely, so you can tell when it is full by overflowing. Feed this hose down from the top and lean under the car and put the open barbed end into the fill hole. Move the drain pan forward to catch oil when it overflows. Have your partner add oil while you hold the elbow into the hole and observe. It should start back flowing out of the fill hole after you added about 3.75 quarts. Remove the elbow from the fill hole, let the transaxle fluid stabilize its level and then cap the fill hole with the plug and new crush washer. Torque to specification. Clean up the residual oil and do final reassembly.The object of the procedure is to have the car level during the refill. If you leave it on the ramps, you will overfill the transaxle which WILL cause problems.If you found this information useful, please press the appropriate button so more people see this review.

The transmission fluid works well. Shift of gears run smoothly.

You got what l need