Derby Dust Speed Wheels (4X) for Pinewood Derby - Derby Dust Asset

Don’t waste your money. Ok, been doing derby for quite a few years, never bought wheels before these. My son has done very well, won many trophies, usually winning his troop overall races and placing at district multiple years, along with some scouts choice and design awards. My youngest will have his first race this year! He was pretty excited knowing his brothers success. Just as an FYI, we spread axles out as far as we can, we do not use factory axle slots, we have a jig to drill our own axle slots, I run 2.5 deg rear axles and 1.5 front. I put grooves in the axles and the boys sand and polish them on a drill press, probably 7 different grades of sand paper up to 3000 grit, which is like soft cloth. We weight the car as far to the rear as possible while keeping cog stable to avoid bouncing in the front. We have a homemade track that we run on that is 24’, no timer but we always use previous year builds to judge speed, every year we have improved, knock on wood, this year we did as well. Barely beating last years car by a matter of 1-2” per race. Last years car placed 2nd overall at district. Any improvement helps, as seasoned racers know. I thought, what if i break down and buy wheels, they said, lighter and turned for improvement on the ad. Well, we put them on today, after multiple test and adjustments, most races, the best I could achieve was a very slight barely noticeable victory and many loses to the car it Was beating by inches before. Both sets of wheels were not polished on inner hubs. 17$, complete waste of time and money. The lathe work was not good, when looking down at the holes the removed material was uneven on a few wheels, almost making the new cut away areas look off center. I then weighed 3 of them, We have a rail runner with 3 wheels and one bent nail in front this year (it was the only design that beat last years car) the factory 3 wheels weighed in at 7.9 grams or .278 oz the purchased 3 wheels weighed in at 7.5 grams or .264 oz, not much of a difference for 3 wheels. Keep in mind, the bsa wheels that came with the basic car set, absolutely no modifications, out performed the 17$ set. I did use the same graphite on all wheels used. I did test the car again after putting the factory wheels back on and it was once again winning by a couple inches. Hopefully this saves some people time and effort. If nothing else, use the above tips when making your car and it will help you to win! I use a little metal press that you have to hammer to bend the axles for what it’s worth, I try to get the rail rider to steer towards the rail at about 1” in 3 feet. Hope all this helps, I truly enjoy seeing the races being competitive so I love sharing tips. I help many scouts every year to get their cars to weight and offer tips and suggestions to anyone that is interested. This is not a tip I will share or recommend, save your money.

They are ultra smooth. I had two 40 year old BSA cars from my youth that me and my Dad built and we had an opportunity to run an adult race for fun and charity. The weight was an ounce more so we bought these wheels and some stick on weight. The two cars dominated and won first and third overall. I highly recommend them.

These wheels wobbled and vibrated a lot despite lots of graphite and knowing how to build pinewood derby cars. You would be better off buying stock wheels and finding ones that are true, these were not.

helped my son win first place in cub scouts this year

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