🎵 Elevate your car audio game—because your sub deserves the best!
The Scosche LOC2SL is a 2-channel high-to-low RCA line output converter designed to seamlessly integrate factory car stereos with aftermarket amplifiers. Compact and durable, it delivers clean, interference-free sound optimized for subwoofers. Powered by 12 volts and backed by a lifetime limited warranty, it offers easy installation and trusted performance for audiophiles and car audio enthusiasts alike.
Item dimensions L x W x H | 2.13 x 6.63 x 13.25 inches |
Voltage | 12 Volts |
Manufacturer | SCOSCHE |
Mounting Type | Surface Mount |
Brand | Scosche |
Number of Channels | 2 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00033991043077 |
UPC | 033991043077 |
Item Weight | 6.4 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 2.13 x 6.63 x 13.25 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | LOC2SL |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Warranty | Lifetime Limited Warranty |
V**E
Works great for my Goldwing with amp
Used this in my Goldwing to convert hi I put from stock amp to rca and then fed it to my amp in trunk. It’s palm sized and quality is good. Recommend for the price. Lot of instructions given, so very easy to install. Love it. Recommend to buy, amazing price. Put this cause my Goldwing stock amp hi level was too hot and this made it so much better
H**R
🫶
Great quality, works well and wont make your xbox slow, absolutely love🫶
J**J
easy setup
Works fine from what I can tell. I set it all upIn less than an hour. Only thing I wish this had was a power light, would’ve saved some effort on my end. Will update if it’s defective
T**O
Nice little gadget.......works well. Required some modifications in my application.
I bought this for my son's sub amp and speaker installation. He had received an amp and a pair of 12 inch subs for Christmas. I needed this to tap into the high level speaker lines for the signal for the amp. The installation seemed straightforward enough but I encountered several problems. Once the system was wired exactly as specified by this and by the amp wiring diagram the system worked and sounded good. All seemed well. We went to bed that night and guess what......the next morning the battery was dead in the car. Out came the charger and that issue was resolved. The next day.....the same thing.A complete check of the wiring showed no stray strands, no bare wires pushed too far in grounding on the amp case, etc. There were no points where any wires were rubbed bare against metal, etc. Much research really turned up nothing so I took matters into my own hands. I disconnected both the hot wire going to the amp itself and also the so called remote turn on wire from this LOC going to the amp and guess what.....no more dead battery. I played with the car a couple of days, played the normal stereo, etc. and all worked fine as before. This made me confident that something was going on with this box, the amp or a combination of the two. Since my son is off at college 100 miles away a dead battery in the morning when leaving for school is not an option.I did some more research and bought a Stinger relay for the main 4 ga power wire. I cut my feed wire, ran it through the contacts on the relay and then wired the coil of the Stinger across a low usage relay in the relay fuse block under the hood. Then to be doubly safe I bought a little $5 four pin relay from the auto parts house and powered the coil off the feed wire for the amp and the ground. Then I ran the remote turn on through the contacts and viola......no more dead battery issues. The car has been ran for a week now with no problems, the volts are staying exactly where they should be, etc.This combination means that the amp has no power until the car key is turned and energizes the Stinger. Then the feed through the Stinger gives power to the other relay to complete the remote turn on circuit. Then if the radio system is turned on the remote turn on will let the amp energize and we have sub sounds.I really have no complete knowledge of what the issue was but just that this box did not work as it should have based on expectations. My son's car has the fancy Microsoft Sync hands free live telephone system and communication package so I have gleaned some knowledge since you can basically speak and the system will power up and allow you to make hands free phone calls or texts, that there must be a low level live signal coming to the speakers that effectively makes this LOC keep the amp on standby even though the amp power light is off. My wiring solution solves all that.With all being said and done.....the LOC works well, we have the sounds we wanted and everyone is pleased. I would recommend this LOC but would just advise you to take my mods into consideration if you encounter issues like I did.
J**E
Very nice value for the money, the bass knob works very nice
Got this installed in my 2008 Toyota Avalon XL after a painstaking process... And it sounds great! I'm using it to power a 750w amp and two 350w subs with my stock head unit. Note, Camrys of this generation have the same wiring colors. Didn't have to adjust the gains for my left or right channels, just tapped into the rear speakers (Left Rear - Yellow with Grey stripes (+) , Black with Grey stripes (-). Right rear - Red with Grey stripes (+), White with Grey stripes (-).I tapped into them on the seat belt column area. I suppose you could do it at the head unit, but I felt safer doing it behind the seatbelt column panel. You can tell they're the speaker wires because they're the only wires intertwined together. The rest of the wires on the harness are not. I used wire taps where you crimp two wires next to each other together with a piece of metal, so I didn't have to cut wires.To get the 12v constant, I simply crimped the wire to a 5A fused line, then crimped it to an extra wire, which I stuck into the "B+" input on my amp, joining it with the power line from the battery.For the ground I did the same thing, routed the wire to the GND input on my amp with the ground wire stuffed in there.The Remote wire actually works very well and for now, has not given me issues. I was relived to not have to route another remote wire from some electrical part of the car, and I could just crimp a wire onto the remote wire from the LOC and connect it to my amp. It only turns the amp on when the radio is on. Perfect.My only fear is if the LOC Remote wire circuit malfunctions for some reason and causes my amp to kill my battery or something. Maybe there's a protection built in for that.Didn't seem to work at first and I thought it might be defective, but I re-did a few connections and it worked! I noticed more bass immediately and knew it wasn't my interior speakers.I connected the bass control knob, which I routed through the interior panels and it works flawlessly! It has a very wide range and is quite sensitive, at least for my set up. Turning it all the way down will essentially turn your sub off, so that's nice for when you need to go incognito!Couldn't be any happier with this. I didn't want to mess around with an aftermarket headunit so I decided to save myself a lot of headache and money. This will do the trick as long as you can tap into the right and left positive and negatives. Of your speakers.
A**Z
Converter
Works great.. easy to install
Trustpilot
1 month ago
1 month ago