YonicoT Track T Slot Router Bit 1-1/16-Inch 1/2-Inch Shank 14188

I just cut some slots earlier today with this, and did not have any issues with it whatsoever in seven ply AC plywood. I did my initial cut with a quarter inch bit to almost full depth ( maybe a 32nd shy), and then finished off the cut with this bit at maximum speed of the router. I was using dust collection for my router table, and there were absolutely no chips left behind in the groove. I set my total depth for 3/8"inch, otherwise there's not much material there for support of the bolt. I would still suggest using a fender washer, as you're just not going to have the same strength as a commercial made T track. The main advantage here is cost savings. As long as you're careful, and don't overly torqued your star screws, the grooves seem to work okay. Again, I would suggest using a fender washer, so you don't destroy the very thin support shoulder.Bear in mind these are designed for quarter inch bolts, and a lot of my stuff is the 5/16 x 18. The size is really common and much beefier. I also like to use the toilet bowl flange bolts, as they tend to ride nicer in the grooves. You could, make a second pass after moving your fence a 16th of an inch, and use these larger 5/16 x 18 bolts. The pressure might be a little more evenly distributed with the wider flange-- I didn't bother.Of course the plus here with these is you can use standard 0.25" x 20 hex head bolts, and overall they seem to slide okay, particularly if you pull on them ever so gently before sliding. I have no idea how this bit would hold up in something like hard maple, but for 7 ply AC plywood they seem to work just fine, no burning or slowing down of the router (Bosch 1617 EV at setting 6).P.S. in retrospect I think going a half inch deep would have been better than 3/8". I was basing some of my measurements off a commercial T track, but of course they are made out of aluminum and can use a much thinner shoulder. 3/8 of an inch deep leaves a pretty narrow shoulder, and again, in hindsight I think a little bit deeper would be better to avoid possible tear-out. Do use a straight bit 1st regardless.

I was more then pleased with the Yoniko T-Slot router bit. I was ecstatic! Read on for my observations.I used the Yoniko T-Slot bit to create a fence 2 ft long made from melamine sided particle board for a router table. I used the bit in a 3.25 hp table router with a 1/4" to 1/2" adapter and set to medium speed. The slots were to hold a 5/16" T Bolt. -- NO PRE CUT OF SLOT NEEDED: I read that it was recommended to cut the 5/16 slot first with another bit before using the T-Slot. This not to be the case. I used the T-Slot bit without any pre slotting and the bit cut strongly through the entire length of the particle board fence. This is a tremendous time saver not to have to do 2 separate operations. -- NICE CLEAN CUT: The cut was nice and clean. Even the edges of the melamine were clean and precise with no chipping at all. See attached picture. -- T-BOLTS FIT GREAT!: The 5/16 T bolts fit perfect in the slots, slide back and forth easily and tightened the fence securely. -- NO BURNING: The bit cut without any burn or even smell from frictional heat.

Bought this sturdy 1/2" shank bit to create my own Slatwall shelving from an unused laminated kitchen shelf. I only needed a couple of shelves for the limited space and buying a full sheet of Slatwall was prohibitively expensive and would delay the project.Technically, this cuts a T-slot that's a bit larger than true Slatwall, but it works.I ran the melamine shelf board through my table saw with the blade raised to just under the depth of the cutter's eventual depth. Then I moved the fence over and cut it again to create a 1/4" dado. This removed a good deal of material so the cutter didn't have to work so hard.I then used my router table and its rip fence to create the T-slot. Cut some scrap first to assure the proper depth. Worked like a charm.A 2'x4' piece of Slatwall goes for $58. This $18 cutter and some scrap 3/4" melamine did the trick and I can use the cutter again for a long time. And I have no unusable leftover Slatwall pieces. Nor did I have to wait for the Slatwall to be delivered. (It's not stocked locally.)I already had some Slatwall 6" shelf brackets I got at Amazon at for a previous project.  KC Store Fixtures A01724 Slatwall Shelf Bracket, 6", Black (Pack of 25) As you can see, you must purchase 25 of them at a time. I had already used 20 of them in my pantry so the five leftovers went to this project. Perfect.I cut some 9/16" thick shelves from some old 1x12s I had salvaged from an old project and planed them down from 3/4", then sprayed some water-based MinWax Polycrylic on them for protection.Obviously, this cutter is only economical if you already have the other tools. But it's a great economical addition to my router bit collection.

Worked with ease and cut like butter left on the counter.

Excellent tool

The bits arrived quickly and were good at cutting slots. The writing on the cutters is extremely tiny and hard to read causing me confusion with determining the cutter sizes and the packaging is not labeled. Customer service from Precision Bits was great in resolving the issue for me.Would buy these again if needed.

Tiene buen acabado y buen filo para lo q ocupe quedó bien no tengo problema

Perfect as described !!

Works as described. I was actually amazed that this t slot cutter worked the way it was supposed to. I cut t-track through softwoods without having to run a slice with the table saw first without any chip out or burning. I currently have utility slots cut into my fences for my sliding miter saw and several on my table saw sled (which is 3/4 inch birch plywood). The slots wont last as long as metal im sure but i probably have cut 200 dollars worth of metal t slot now and am still finding excuses to use it. Even if this bit gets dull after 6 months (which is has not) I would buy another.Excellent product.

It works good, but one thing to note is that you should first route a straight grove before using the T router. Being inexperienced with routing I did not do this at first and it ended up smoking shortly after getting the cut started. By first cutting the straight grove you make it so the T-slot doesn't have to work so hard and has more room to expel the shavings.

Hace lo que dice, pero la ranura final es estrecha, y el tornillo de 1/4 se atora, es complicado moverlo a través de la ranura, así que tendrá otro uso