Electrically Conductive Wire Glue

I have a group of 6, 12V outdoor lighting group of lights that enhance our front gardens around our house. On one of the light connections, one of the two wires pulled out of the plastic housing (the electrical connection was down a small hole in the plastic housing. The wire had just pulled out exposing the metal strands of wire. When I pushed the wire back into the hole, the light lit up again, but the wire would not stay inside of the hole. I knew it needed to be soldered....somehow, but with no exposure to the connecting point inside of the plastic housing it was impossible. After a bit of googling and YouTubing, I found this product which was highly recommended. I searched on Amazon, found it, ordered it, it came quickly. I put some of the wire glue on the wires and dropped a bunch down the hole, jammed the wire into the hole (the light came on), I held the wires in place for a few minutes, and after a few months of various weather (warm, wet, cold, etc) the light still works. Great product!

Product was not adhesive at all. Nor was it very conductive. High resistance for those of you that understand electrical terms.

I'm using this product to glue a magnet onto a 21700 battery to extend the length of a third-party battery so it fits properly in my Fenix flashlight. The wire glue doesn't bond the magnet and battery that well,so I added a little bit of clear non-expensive gorilla glue and mixed it with the wire glue. This combination works extremely well. It is also very conductive.

Glue is probably the wrong word for this product. I was able to use it to "glue" a component back on and it did conduct electricity. I tried "glueing" a wire to a pad and couldn't get it to hold. Glue is thin and doesn't stick well. It seems to work well in limited applications. The advice in the instructions dto back this up with super glue should probably be followed.

It's A Mixture of Graphite & Water Soluble GlueComes with lots of caveats so do some research...like it won't work to fix any kind of wiringattached to a windshield, antenna, defroster etc.It isn't tacky.. so either use a clamp, or beprepared to hold the object (for a long time.)It's thin & watery..apply sparingly in layers....and even after it's dried to the touch, itwon't conduct electricity very well until it'ssat for at least a few days to throughly dry.It gets Brittle.. and will crack away under anykind of stress or tugging.. so be prepared toreinforce whatever you're mending with eithertape of an additional application of epoxy.Lastly... It's NOT really Metallic.. IOW.. Notas good at conducting electricity as you'dprobably hope it would be. It DOES conduct acurrent but not as well as solder. I fixed aflashlight, and you can see a BIG differencebetween the mended flash & an identical unit.Given the alternative (buying and/or using asoldering unit) it's BETTER THAN NOTHING.

know that the conducting wires need to touch each other. My experimenting with this product while trying to modify some LED plant lights by removing the timer. The light and input wires were VERY thin and were soldered to a small electronic board. When I removed them and stripped them for contact, I just knew they were going to pull apart and I also remembered I bought this to do something similar to a cooling fan inside a computer. The trick is to put the items together and "pin" the connection together with some sort weight on the wires, while allowing air to get to the glued wires. I had shrink tape but it was way too large for the wires so then I used some wire tape. The glue DID ensure proper contact with the wires. If people are expecting the glue to conduct well over a gap, nothing other than solder or more wire is going to do that well. IF YOU JUST NEED TO STICK TWO CONDUCTORS TOGETHER THAT ARE AREADY TOUCHING, and the contact is supported, and not in a position where they will get moved around or pulled on, this works great.

The media could not be loaded. The glue is very thin and watery, but I was able to use it to secure a wire to a terminal that was too close to a plastic case for soldering. The important thing is to make sure the wire is firmly touching the terminal before applying the glue. I used the wire's own tension to make sure it would stay against the terminal while the glue dried. Instructions recommend leaving it overnight, but I applied low heat to get it to dry and found it had firmed up after a couple hours.Per suggestion in the instructions, I added a layer of epoxy over top of the glue to assure that the wire wouldn't work loose.

I bought this "glue" to attach spade connectors to each end of a battery. The spade was a male connector (basically a flat strip). The product is the consistency of paint not glue. there was no tacky to it, so the tab needed to be clamped in place until it dried. After 24 hours the paint was dry, but it had no strength. When I tested it, the tab fell off, so I cleaned it and reattached it. After the 24 hours I super glued it as recommended in the instructions. After that dried, I checked and there was no continuity across the connection. Thinking there was an issue, I pulled it apart again with very little effort. This time not only did I need to clean off the paint, but also the super glue. After several more tries varying the pressure of the clamp to attempt a spot that would have metal to metal contact around the paint and still be somewhat stronger bond, I decided that there was a tradeoff. I was either going to have a structural bond or an electric bond but not both. It would seem that this product may work on a circuit board where there is a good physical contact but no need for strength