ATP Ball Joint Separator Universal Ball Joint Removal Tool Tie Rod Removal Tool

Works and was easy to use to pop the Ball Joints loose from the Steering Knuckle. Also used it on the Tie Rod Ends.Just position the Pivot Pin for the length of the Ball Joint Stud, grease up the threads so they won't gall under load, position the tool and tighten the Jack Screw so it's quite tight and then rap the the Stearing Knuckle with a three pound Sledge/Hammer in the area where the taperered Ball Joint Stud goes through the Knuckle. Often there are raised flat spots on the Knuckle where it's most effective to Rap.Tighten the Jack Screw again and Rap the Knuckle again with some serious force. Repeat the Tightening/Raping cycle until the stud breaks loose. Each time you Tighten then Rap the Knuckle, the Stud will move ever so slightly in its bore until it pops free. Ezy-Peezy....NOTE: Generally you cannot break the stud loose by only Tightening the Jack Screw. You have to Tighten and then Rap the Knuckle Two, Three or Four times before the BJ pops loose. If it comes apart by only tightening the Jack Screw, it's because the BJ Stud Nut was not Torqued to proper Spec by the previous Mecanick. If it doesn't pop loose after four or five Tighten/Rap cycles, it's just really tight. Repeat the Tighten/Rap cycles until the BJ separates but DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN the Jack Screw.If you try to break the stud loose by severely tightening the Jack Screw, you'll either break the Pivot Pin or severely gall the Jack Screw.If need-be, buy a Three Pound Sledge from Amazon to break the BJs free. They're not expensive. Believe me, you won't do it with a Claw or Ball-Peen Hammer.Been There, Done That. Got the Tee-Shirt....The primary tool in this operation is the Three Pound Sledge! I kid you not......The key is to use a lot of Sledge and a moderate amount of Jack Screw tightening.BTW: DO NOT RAP ON THE TOOL, Rap only the Knuckle.ALSO: You'll have to cut about half of the Greese Boot away with a sharp knife to mount the tool between the BJ Stud and Knuckle. There's a steel ring in the wide end of the boot. Don't bother with it, just cut the boot away below the ring.

Problem solver indeed. Great quality. Put a tiny quantity of grease in the threads of the bolt for better results.

Works great for removing cotter pins in bicycle cranks, drill a 1/4” deep hole to hold the pin in place or it will slide on you and/or bend it, that’s not good, but it’s better choice then beating the crap out of the pin and damaging the crank

Junk. Pin sheered off during first use, ricocheting off my floor with enough force to spark when it hit the floor. I was lucky it didn't strike me. After this broke I ended up using the "hit the side of the spindle with a big friggin' hammer" approach, which knocked the joint loose after a couple good whacks. (FWIW, this is the approach I've seen mechanics take first before trying to use one of these tools).Side note: the opening was technically wide enough for my truck's ball joint, but in trying to slip it under it tore the rubber ball joint cover. Fortunately I was replacing them but if I was using this to pop the joint loose but not intending to replace them I would have been very angry.The combination of the pin breaking right at the ball and the fact that it might be sized for smaller car ball joints but isn't really right for big trucks is why it gets one star.

Lo compre por nuevo pero me resultó que estaba usado

Muy buena herramienta

When trying to work on an upper wishbone balljoint on an older accord, it was frustrating that there was just a rounded smooth surfact - the thing kept slipping off, but it would have been perfect if the ends had some teeth like a vicegrips instead of just smooth like a wet butt. Relatedly, the angles are hit or miss depending on the situation it may grip or it may slip. I failed on that accord

It worked great the first time I used it, but the second time did not go so well. The bolt ended up bending and now doesn’t thread quite right.